Yesterday we visited an ancient Roman church that once doubled as a fortress. It looked like a huge rectangular tall stone box since it was built before they invented flying butresses and arches. I was very surprised to see about 50 pilgrims in the pews looking like they were praying. About 35 of them were clearly an organized youth group. The church also stamped your credential which could have been part of the attraction. This town, Portomarin, caters almost exclusively to pilgrims. They even had a farmacia so we bought some cough medicine for me and a thermometer. I have a slight fever, which I feel I've had for

days, as well as bronchitis, very unusual for me. The next day at breakfast we met a German woman. She explained that the Camino is religious for her. "I have a good life. Of course bad things happen to everyone, but I have it so much better than many others. I'm here to express my thankfulness" she said. Today we are staying in a very nice rural alburgue. The teeny tiny village, where I think there are more sheep than residents, is called Vendas de Naron.