We leave tomorrow for Triacastela to officially start our Camino. However, we've already been averaging between 5 and 8 miles per day in Madrid because walking is the best way to get around here. The traffic is crazy and the streets are packed with people. We saw El Prado today - amazing and overwhelming. The many religious paintings remind us of how much things have changed since the Middle Ages and the Baroque period. We also visited some churches which are very ornate but many others were badly damaged during the Spanish Civil War (1936-9).  I'm trying to fight off a cold that I hope won't affect my Camino. Hot chicken soup would have been nice but all we could find here were tapas!