Only one day left and we will be in Santiago. I have no idea how I am going to feel. This whole thing is still a mystery to me. Also, I'm not completely better yet and have a sinus infection. Given the organization of the trip, it hasn't been possible to get medical attention.
 Today we had an interesting conversation at a cafe with an American who has lived in Madrid for 40 years and also leads Camino trips. She says she is pantheist and belives in spirits in the rocks and trees. She thinks the Camino is more ancient than its Catholic heritage and has pagan roots and energy. She described one pilgrim who absolutely refused to walk with anyone even remotely religious. The pilgrim thought a religious person would hinder her from feeling the ancient pre-Christian energy.
The woman at the cafe says it's good we are going to visit Finesterra and Muxia. They are both, she says, of pagan roots with Finesterra having male energy and Lucia having female energy.
Her narrative is so similar to the other female Baby Boomers SBNRsI've interviewed in the US, Canada and Mexico.  She, as the others, was overwhemingly confident in her rhetoric. I think it is a strong assertive story meant to counter what they perceive as a dominant male religious narrative. But history doesn't come in layers, such that you can peel them back and get to the authentic story. It's way more complex and difficult than that.