The most impactful part of our day for me was when we entered an 11th c church and saw a Visigoth altar from the 7th c. I was struck by how ancient a religion Christianity is. Given that my concern is the huge decline in organised religion, shown most prominently by the SBNR movement, it was reassuring. Of course the Visigoths only controlled this area for a couple of hundred  years before the Moors took over here. Also, I talked to one SBNR this morning who equated being spiritual with emptying her mind. Then this afternoon we spoke with a young software designer from Seattle who insisted she absolutely knew why everyone walked the Camino. She said it was simply to leave their hectic stressful lives and get back to basics. She insisted there was nothing spiritual about their reasons at all.