Actually, I had my 10th bowl of "caldo gallego" yesterday. My cold and cough and low energy are improving. But I'm not used to feeling tired! What a drag.  Today we tried "pulpo" at the best "pulperia" in Melide. I figured I'd try it once but seeing all those suckers and tentacles really put me off my lunch. I focused on bread and salad instead. I tried to be a good sport but in the end let Joe eat most of it. I feel a bit worn out by all of this...walking, a different hotel every night, similar menus every day,  living out of a small suitcase. If it is true that 'no pain, no gain,' I am in for a big surprise. But if the original purpose of Camino is penance, then I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be repenting for!